Training should always be done in a quiet environment. A balanced trainer will be able to help you lay that foundation I mentioned earlier. It wouldn't be reasonable to ask a dog that escapes, or has a history of nipping or aggressing when people come in, to sit or lie down as "scary" strangers parade past, but that would be a wonderful goal for a dog that is overly friendly. No big deal—just show your dog that it's the same game he learned earlier, but this time the doorbell rings first. With some patience, consistency and positivity, you can teach your dog to stop barking when a visitor arrives. You can use a leash or tether to prevent your dog from moving too far away from the station until he better understands that the "sit" / "down" is the answer. My puppy goes crazy sometimes too. If your dog just barks, or pushes you out of the way to greet your guests, you might be able to train a "sit" or "down" after the doorbell rings. its becoming a hassle to put the dogs in another room when people come over. Be sure to do a number of reinforcements when he does come back. When a dog first interacts with someone or another dog, the first move they make is to sniff. Your goal is that when the dog hears the bell ring or a knock on the door, he immediately comes to you for a treat instead of going crazy at the door. Direct your dog to the mat or rug after the "just a minute" cue and ask for the "sit" or "down." This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. – Bob. The preliminary step in training this diversion exercise is to teach your dog to move away from the entry so that you have some room to get to the door without him crowding or pushing. There are usually two factors to consider. Dog Barking Basics Recognize the causes of your dog’s territorial barking. The first thing to understand is the behavior itself and how it got … Your helper, stationed outside, will be the doorbell ringer. Invite your dog to come with you to the closed front door. ... so we have a tried and tested routine for when someone comes to the door. Keep in mind that you will need a very high-value reward and multiple clicks and treats for dogs that find the arrival of guests highly rewarding. When your dog is training to a station and is consistently moving there with ease after the bell rings, go back to the steps of just turning the doorknob, and then opening the door a little, and so on, just as you did before the doorbell was added. Crazy barking is a conditional response and therefore it can be unconditioned with a little work and effort. For dogs that need to be confined, practice getting farther and farther away from the door as you progress until you reach the area where you will confine him. I have a male 3-year-old tan pomeranian. Continue until you can open the door and your guest is able to walk past you and your dog. NOT OK!!!! Again, be sure your dog is fluent in the foundation steps before opening the door. The various stages may take time for you and your dog to master; don't be afraid of backing up and starting a stage again. Hang your dog’s leash over the doorknob or have it somewhere close to the door. Ciara Powell October 28, 2014 at 2:46 pm. Get your dog used to spending some solo time, Baugh says, and he won’t go crazy when you tell him to scram before sex. There is a new person to sniff and to get attention from or there is a potential threat to the homestead. You’re not alone. In the beginning, give your dog only limited freedom on the end of a leash when a guest comes to the door; over time, work up to having her off leash when the doorbell rings. Practice having someone ring the doorbell or knocking on the door and when he goes to the door reward him for being your alarm system. Follow your dog to the door and call out to your helper, “Hold on, please, while I leash the dog!” Then leash your dog, ask him to sit, and open the door. Once you have walked to the door, touched the doorknob, and announced the "just a minute" cue, turn and move away from the door, encouraging your dog to move with you. And you are liable for whatever your dog does if it runs out the door and someone gets injured. Where you stop could be the final destination for dogs that will be stationed in a "sit" or "down" or an intermediate stop for those dogs that will need to be confined. Or if the dog is crated while I am out, and I come home, from the moment I came in the door until the moment I got him out of his crate was a period of anxiety for him, until I re-trained it. You will need a clicker-savvy and hungry dog, several levels of food rewards (from average to high-value treats), a treat pouch so your treats are readily available, and your clicker. Click and treat when your dog moves or backs away from the door even the tiniest bit. The idea is to counter excitement about the sudden noise and/or the imminent guest. Use the average-value treats as you begin to add movement away from the door, clicking and treating for the initial movement. I doubt it would take more then an investment of a couple of hours and the trainer will be able to advise in a way tailored to the personalities of your dogs and the handling abilities of everyone in your home. Plant the seed that the best rewards come after movement from the door. Does your home seem like the 5th at Santa Anita every time the doorbell rings? Thanks for this article. Dogs are excellent at hiding their pain, and many times we don’t even know that our dogs are unwell, or hurt. Glossary terms will be automatically marked with links to their descriptions. You really want your dog to think this is the most wonderful game in the world so that when you do add the doorbell, it is no big deal and your dog will start to head toward the confinement area. When this happens, you are ready to plug in a new behavior. Whatever you know that distracts and calms your dog. Dropping a few treats on the floor for your dog to find as he tries to figure out why you are not leaving will help your dog calm down faster. The youngest is especially bad and the other two follow along. This is where the high-value treats will come in. All suggestions gratefully accepted. my dog is a 5 year old, retriever/lurcher male who is very excitable. Instead, after you have him back in place, smile and use your voice and praise to encourage him to stay put until you have made it all the way back to the location where you or your helper was when he got up. once he stops barking i let him out and he is friendly to the person. Practice these components many times throughout the day, until you can see your dog moving away from the door when you say, "just a minute" and until you are successful directing your dog back to his station. Two of them even nip at guests. Keep in mind that during the early stages of this training your dog doesn't have to do anything except move away from the door. From a dog’s perspective, someone at the door can be really exciting or really scary. ", "Rounding the turn, it's Fido, with Suburban Woman picking up momentum, and Fifi a length behind. In other words, be better than the environment with your rewards! Once you have achieved that element, you can start to add the verbal cue, which tells your dog there is something you want him to do when the doorbell rings. I don’t wait for them to jump. Take your time, practice a few times each day, and remember that it could take several days or even a week or two before you obtain the desired results. A dog that’s spinning in circles, jumping up and down, or barking and yipping is not a happy dog. How To Deal With Door Aggression In Dogs. You should have a mat or rug several steps away from the door so that your dog can be sent to that area. But my goal is to tackle this slowly over the weekend. Often, dogs who bark at … Your email address will not be published. Does this sound familiar: Does this sound familiar: Puppy springs across the room, runs into the wall, jumps up on you, bites your hand, pulls on and tears your pant leg, dives under the couch, sprints back and runs into the screen door…repeat for 30 minutes. Practice ringing the doorbell and not opening the door. Your dog's composed behavior will allow you to walk to the door unencumbered and inform your guests that you will be with them in a moment. Once you get that far, walk back to your dog, and then click and treat several times. The dog has excess energy, and the only way her brain knows how to deal with it is to work it off physically. ‘Virtual+’ – Training With Ask The Dog Guy. my dogs bark and go crazy when people ring the door bell. If your dog gets up at any point, your helper should stop and back up (going all the way back to the door, or even outside, and closing the door, if necessary). i love him to pieces and i got him 4 years ago at a dog trust shelter. Be sure to tell your dog, "All done," or another release cue, after each successful movement away from the door. I’d suggest first teaching the dogs to go to a mat whenever you are in the kitchen and to a similar place near the door whenever you are taking them out and after they return from an outing even if it’s only to relieve themselves. 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